Oil Listed
Tuesday, January 12th, 2010Oil Listed
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 Original Oil Painting by Listed Artist Dines Carlsen  US $182.49
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 Lucius Rossi pair oil paintings Boy Girl signed listed US $450.00
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 BRILLIANT ORIGINAL OIL PAINTING SAM HARRIS LISTED US $120.00
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 SUPERB OIL LISTED ARTIST C1950 STILL LIFE FLOWERS US $30.08
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 ANTIQUE RUSSIAN ICON BIBLE PORTRAIT LISTED OIL KOLLMANN US $355.00
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 JOHN DUCKER c1880 1920 British LISTED OIL LANDSCAPE US $225.63
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 Vintage Oil Painting CJ Gardiner Listed Artist Impasto US $39.95
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 OIL PAINTING ON CANVASSTILL LIFE LISTED ARTIST R COLAO US $999.99
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 Original landscape Frank Kecskes Jr oil listed Fabulous US $1,900.00
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 WALLINGER LISTED AMERICAN HUDSON RIVER SCHOOL OIL PAINT US $129.99
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 Carl Walters Tile Signed Oil Listed Woodstock Artist US $6.50
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 JOHN FRANCIS MURPHY 1853 1921 Listed Artist LARGE OIL US $2,000.00
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 VIGGO HANSEN 1951 SWLANDSCAPE OIL PAINTING LISTED ART US $529.00
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 LISTED ARTIST FRANK LEAN OIL PAINTING GREAT COLORS US $15.00
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 OLD Listed Artist impressionist Fine Art OIL PAINTING US $46.09
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 LANDSCAPE OIL ON BOARD LISTED ARTIST Egon J Rosbroy US $11.50
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 COLORADO MT SCENE OIL LISTED SIGNED R WIDMEIER MID CEN US $235.00
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 Beautiful Oil Listed Artist Anton Riebe 750 US $341.85
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 Antique painting oil canvas HJJohnson signed listed US $199.00
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 Original miniature oil painting listed artist J Joppe US $89.95
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 VERY FINE ANTIQUE ORIGINAL OIL PAINTIG LISTED US $100.00
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 JOHN BLAKE MACDONALD RSA 19thC Scottish LISTED OIL US $169.97
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 EDWIN PETTITT 19thC British LISTED OIL Ex SOTHEBYS US $278.28
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 HENRI PLISSON French Artist Signed Oil Landscape LISTED US $1,200.00
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 Listed by Artist Original oil painting art on canvas US $261.00
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 THOMAS PELHAM 1860 1891 British LISTED OIL to $12000 US $1,130.00
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 FINE Vtg Signed OIL PAINTING Isabelle Schrock Listed US $1,400.00
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 Ariane Beigneux listed artist Oil on Masonite 1946 US $79.99
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 Emmett Kelly Joey Oil LISTED ARTIST GRACE PISCHNER US $24.99
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 Expressionist streetscape vintage oil listed US $21.50
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 Listed Jaime Oates Oil Painting Musician Abstract US $200.00
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 BULAKLAK 12x16 Philippine FOLK Art Oil Painting LISTED US $189.00
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 Listed Jaime Oates Oil Painting Harbor Boats Abstract US $200.00
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 LISTED NEW YORK CITY ARTIST FRANK STELLA OIL ON CANVAS US $2,200.00
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 Fine Haitian Folk Art Oil Well Listed Artist US $29.99
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 LISTED RARE ANTIQUE FLORAL TULIPS LILIES OIL PAINTING US $200.00
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 The Harpist academic Impressionist Oil Hester Listed US $34.99
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Change Your Own Oil and Save Some Cash
There was a time when everybody changed their own oil. Now just nearly half of U.S. vehicle owners do their own repair and maintenance. By learning to change your own oil, you can save roughly a hundred dollars a year and maybe more.
Before you get started, there are important oil disposal laws you must understand otherwise you could be fined by the EPA fines that go as high as six figures. The days of digging a hole in the back yard and pouring dirty oil into it are long gone. Environmental authorities suggest you pour old oil into a clean plastic container and take it to a service dealer or facility that offers oil-collection services. Call your state or local used-oil program for locations of collection centers. Call 1-800-424-9346 for a list of state oil-recycling contacts or write to Resource Conservation and Recovery Docket, 401 M St., S.W., Washington, DC 20460.
Now, if you're still interested in tackling this task yourself, Edmunds has created a Do-It Yourself List. To start, here is a list of tools and things you'll need to perform this procedure:
* a 3/8-drive socket set (metric will work for both)
* a combination wrench set (closed- and open-ended, metric)
* an oil filter wrench
* something to catch the old oil -- an oil pan, a used kitchen basin, a kid's pail
* a couple of empty one gallon milk containers with screw-on lids.
* a funnel and a one quart Ziploc baggie
* a lot of old newspapers and several dirty rags
* presoiled work clothes and, if you have long hair, a baseball cap
* two pair surgical gloves (optional; no, we won't ask you to cough)
* a new oil filter (see vehicle's owner's manual for requirements)
* enough oil to refill the engine (check back page of owner's manual for grade and number of quarts); we recommend name brands, such as Valvoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil, etc.
STEP ONE: Before you do anything, pick out a flat spot on your driveway. Now take your car for a drive around the neighborhood. We do this to heat the oil and make it nice and thin, so it will drain more completely from the engine block. Drive the vehicle far enough and long enough so that the temperature gauge begins to register. If you don't have a temp gauge, or if you have gauges but they're broken, turn on the heater and drive until your feet get toasty. The engine is now warm. Park it in your pre-chosen spot.
STEP TWO: Turn off the engine, put the car in gear, and set the parking brake firmly. For safety, block the tires with several bricks or large rocks. Go in the house and put on your dirty clothes and cap. Come out and line up your tools.
Now slide under the car and locate the oil drain plug. If there isn't enough room to slide under, you may have to jack up the car to get beneath it. Raise the car with a hydraulic pump and settle it on jackstands. CAUTION: Never get under a car held aloft only by a jack. Always use jackstands.
O.K., now locate the drain plug. It should be about the closest thing to the ground, a fairly large nut with a slim washer under it. Sometimes it will even be labeled "drain plug." (Caution: Make sure you're not looking at the transmission drain plug. It's usually a larger nut. If not sure, feel the metal around it. The metal around the engine oil plug should be a lot hotter than around the trans plug. If still not sure, call a friend.) Find your socket set and pull out several sockets that look about the same size as the nut until you find one that fits over it.
STEP THREE: If you have them, put on your surgical gloves to keep your hands clean. Grab the socket wrench and put the correct-sized socket on it. Place it over the nut and turn it counter-clockwise. It won't budge? Try again -- really put some force into it this time. If it still won't dislodge after several tries, locate the same sized closed-end wrench and use that instead. After you get the nut cracked, work it slightly loose with your fingers. Not too loose, though -- you don't want oil all over the place.
STEP FOUR: Now take the newspaper and spread it under the car. Make sure to cover where the oil filter sticks out, because it drips after removal. Look up into the engine. See the oil filter? It looks like a miniature, upside-down version of the mountain from "Close Encounters of the Third Kind." Get the drain pan (or kitchen basin, or kid's pail) and slide it under the drain plug. Position it so the stream hits it just right (if the plug points to the side and not straight down, the oil will shoot out sideways like from a fire hydrant). Loosen the plug and set it aside. Most of the oil will drain in about two minutes.
STEP FIVE: Locate the oil filter wrench. Take the socket off the socket wrench and set it next to the drain plug. Slip the oil filter wrench onto the socket wrench. You'll probably want to use the short extension, too. The oil filter wrench is like a round dog collar that only chokes in one direction. Set it up to "grab" or "choke" counterclockwise. Slip it over the oil filter and give it a tug. It shouldn't be that tight. When you feel it give, loosen it a little more, then slide the wrench off and do the rest by hand. Careful -- it has hot oil in it! Make sure your face is not under it. Remove it all the way and pour the contents into the drain pan. Set the used oil filter right-side-up on the newspaper.
STEP SIX: Slide out, open the hood (if you haven't already) and remove the oil filler cap. Set it aside. This will help the oil drain a little easier. O.K., take a breather.
Now, here's the deal. If you're in a hurry, you can dive right in and finish the oil change. But think about it. Drops of dirty oil are still dripping down. Personally, we like to give it a good hour to drain completely. They don't do that in the quick-lube places. If you have the time, peel off your gloves and take a break. Grab a bite, drink some soda, watch the tube.
STEP SEVEN: O.K., you're back. Put your gloves on and get to work. Before you thread the new oil filter in place, dip a finger into the drain pan and coat the rubber gasket on the bottom of the filter with oil, and set it aside. This will help it seat better against the engine block. With a clean rag, wipe off the round metal circle on the engine where the oil filter fits, then thread the new filter onto the post. When it's finger-tight, either tighten it by hand if you're strong enough (it takes about one-half to three-quarters of a turn, no more: read the instructions on the filter), or flip the oil filter wrench over on the socket wrench and tighten it that way.
STEP EIGHT: We recommend using a new sealing washer on the drain plug. Put the washer in place and thread the drain plug back into its hole. Scooch it up tight with the socket set, but not so tight that you can't get it off the next time (remember your struggles earlier; better to have it snug but not stripped.) Now take the oil drain pan and the empty milk bottle and the funnel. If you have a friend, have him hold the bottle while you pour the oil into it. When most of the oil has found the bottom of the bottle, seal it with the lid, then wipe out the inside of the funnel with a clean rag. (We sometimes prop the drain pan against a wall and let it continue to drip into the bottle while we do the next step. You'll need an extra funnel to do this.)
STEP NINE: Set the cleaned funnel into the oil filler hole and pour in as many quarts as the manufacturer recommends. As the oil fills, begin cleaning up. Throw the newspapers in the trash and wipe down all your tools. Discard the empty oil containers in a recycling bin. After the oil is all in, twist the oil cap back on and check the dipstick for oil level, just to make sure. Take the old oil filter, place it in the Ziploc bag, and seal it.
STEP TEN: Start the engine and let it idle for about five minutes, looking for leaks. Place the milk container and the Ziploc bag in a box, and set it somewhere in the car where it can't tip over. Drive to the nearest oil recycling center (as we discussed, most of the national chains, such as Econo Lube N' Tune, Jiffylube, Grease Monkey, etc., will take your old oil and filters). Take a last look underneath for leaks.
About the Author
Greg Chapman of Greg Chapman Motors is a knowledgeable and leading provider of used cars, trucks, and SUV’s. Since 1959, Chapman motors has supplied reliable used cars in Austin and the surrounding area and is known as one of the bad credit car dealers in Austin. For more information please visit http://www.gregchapmanmotors.com.
What does it mean when a house has it's heating listed as oil heat/forced air?
I am a first time home buyer and live in Michigan. So the cost to heat a home will have a huge bearing on whether or not I buy it. The house I am looking at was build in the Late 1800's and lists heating system as oil heat/forced air. I have no idea what oil heat is, how efficent it is, or the cost of it.
Can anyone help me out?
does anyone have any idea how often I may have to refill the oil? Also how much it may cost and where I could do so?
A forced air heating system is one that heats the air in your home and blows it through duct work and out of registers. Usually they are on the floor, but can also be on the ceiling or in walls. Most homes in the U. S. have forced air heat. Oil Heat means that the source of the heat is home heating oil. This is basically the same as diesel fuel. It is burned as fuel in the furnace and heats the air by way of a heat exchanger as the air blows through it. Other types of forced air furnaces include gas, and electric.
As for how efficient it is that depends upon how old it is. If it is very old, the efficiency isn't going to be very good regardless of what fuel is used. New gas furnaces can have efficiencies as high as 90 % or maybe even better. But ones even 10 years old might be only 70% efficient. I would expect that oil fired furnaces would be similar. I recommend that you first find out how old the furnace is, and then have a certified HVAC company check it out.
Something else that you want to consider, especially in a home that old is insulation. It probably didn't get any at all when it was built, so it is a good idea to find out what you have in that regard. How deep is it in the attic, what kind of insulation is in the walls etc. The higher the R-value of the insulation the better. You can call your local building authority for information on the requirements for new homes in your area, and use that as a basis for comparison .
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Azatrol EC Insecticide 4 ounce - OMRI Listed Organic Sale Price: $34.95  |
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A broad spectrum botanical product for control of insects and mites on indoor and outdoor ornamental plants, shrubs, flowers, garden vegetables, fruit and nut trees. Can be used as a repellent, anti-feedant, insect growth regulator and ovipositioning deterrent... |
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Hunter 42" Bridgeport Ceiling Fan - Damp Listed - New Bronze 23935 Sale Price: $89.95 |
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Sometimes, the name really does say it all. UL® listed for damp outdoor use, the Bridgeport Outdoor can turn a back porch into a breezeway with the flip of a switch. |
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Westinghouse 66842 Village Manor One-Light Exterior Wall Lantern, Oil Rubbed Bronze with Seeded Linen Globe List Price: $78.35 Sale Price: $46.53 |
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Sold as each. 11-3/4"H x 6-1/4"W x 7-5/8"D. Back plate: 4-1/2"W x 8-18"H x 1"D. Shade height: 6". Shade diameter: 1-3/4". 120 volts. Use 1 standard base, clear A19 bulb. 100 watt maximum. Replacement bulb - SKU # 3019718... |
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LM-200 Mechanical Fuel Meter (for 30 wt. Oil) w/ Strainer for Quarts with 3/4-inch NPT Inlet/Outlet (UL Listed) - 3-Digit Display Sale Price: $152.95 |
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LM-200 Mechanical Fuel Meter (for 30 wt. Oil) w/ Strainer for Quarts with 1-inch NPT Inlet/Outlet (UL Listed) - 3-Digit Display Sale Price: $167.95 |
How Can America Break the Dependence on Foreign Oil?